Saturday, March 28, 2009

Barney Fisher-Turner
Istanbul Food Stylist/Food Writer

Moreish Review

A couple of weeks ago I was finally able to sample the exciting menu at Moreish; everyone in Istanbul’s food sector has been raving about this modestly sized dining room and the food served to those who inhabit. Bread represents the first food stuff a customer will eat when they sit down in most restaurants; it’s either lacking in character or warm, crunchy, fluffy and life affirming. The bread at Moreish fulfilled all of the latter points and is served in a playful, original way with good not too cheesy Turkish butter and a line of Egyptian spices. As a soup person I kicked off with The Spiced Egg Plant and Chorizo Soup, which comes complete with beautifully poached quails eggs, and spinach The smear of spicy Chorizo puree, the smoky warming egg plant and the comfortable oozing poached egg combine to form a masterful very serious soup presentation full of beautiful flavors Every guest should try the deeply refreshing sweet tomato sorbet to cleanse the palette. For mains the hearty dish of Grilled Quails with Veal Bolognese is a must; this appetizing deeply savory dish is served with comforting mashed potato to mop up the full flavored sauce and poached Quails eggs. All I can say about this one is that it is jolly good eating and perfect wholesome wet weather food. For dessert I was kindly offered two equally delicious, inventive, slightly strange sounding ice creams; twinned on one plate was the olive oil, and the celery. My wife had to listen to me wax lyrical about this eye opening supper for days; apparently the latest one in the sector to be raving!

www.barneyfisherturner.com

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