Barney Fisher-Turner
Istanbul Food Stylist/Food Writer
The Spice Market Review
I would like to see more establishments like The Spice Market pushing the Asian envelope in the future. I wouldn’t be surprised if this classy dining room is still ‘sitting pretty’ in ten years time; a hub for all things Asian or a brilliant shining example of how to run a fine dining restaurant that is classy, elegant and brave. Do yourself a favor and kick start your dinner with the raw salmon with Yuzu crumbs. This Japanese influenced starter is a lovely way to showcase the very best soft salmon. These citrus crumbs provide a clever texture contrast. You can have a hell of a time trying to find Yuzu in Istanbul; if you do manage to unearth a source, this lovely Asian fruit always pairs well with salmon; any fish really. The chicken Samosa with coriander yoghurt reminded me of my last trip to Mumbai; the well balanced Indian spice blend throughout the filling, the crunchy exterior and the cooling herby yoghurt combine beautifully; a perfect version of what must be one of the best snacks on the planet. You would be a fool to walk out of that dining room without experiencing what could be the finest desert in the city; the staggeringly good ‘Chocolate Kulfi’. It is very hard to describe this one to a readership; I remember moaning strangely & at one point water collected in the corner of my left eye; a quick sobering glance at the surrounding chic interior design and my decked out suited company; I was back! All the best sweet motifs were out in force; chocolate, chewy caramel, maybe condensed milk in the fold. It’s almost worth ordering two of these treats, one as it comes to be scoffed in the restaurant and a doggy bag for home. After a good nap another helping is always appreciated.
www.barneyfisherturner.com
Saturday, March 28, 2009
Barney Fisher-Turner
Istanbul Food Stylist/Food Writer
Changa Review
Interesting viable flavor combos; sleek clever little dishes that are always playful without being de trop; the Changa team seem to always be searching but most of all they care about showing off flavor. I could hurl around ‘missing the point’ superlatives complimenting anything from the color of the bathroom walls, to the waiter’s outfits; I want to examine the beautifully crafted food however, which to me is ‘the point’. The deep fried beef tongue with red cabbage salad was right up my strassa; a reworked version of the classic Turkish bufe sandwich with crunchy Japanese Panko crumbs and an accompanying lemony, mustardy salad to assuage and cut through any guilty conscience still wrestling with the words ‘deep fried’. The grilled grouper with Borlotti bean puree and mint and green chili salsa is a lovely dish; a perfect window into the type of intelligent food being served at Changa. The salsa was spicy, sweet, salty, and sour; the fish, perfectly cooked white flaky protein; an ideal vehicle for all of the above; the puree offers an appropriately almost bland backdrop and creamy texture contrast. The slow cooked lamb wrapped in vine leaves with sour cream and sweet chili sauce showcases Changa’s philosophy in triumphant fashion; Turkish ingredients and motifs used in an innovative, surprising way; the lamb, the leaves and the cooking liquor are wholesome and deeply familiar; add soured cream and sweet, chili and your looking at a beautifully conceived dish that bridges the well traversed gaps between rustic and fine dining, Turkish and Asian. Well traversed for the Changa team! Not for the rest of us!
www.barneyfisherturner.com
Istanbul Food Stylist/Food Writer
Changa Review
Interesting viable flavor combos; sleek clever little dishes that are always playful without being de trop; the Changa team seem to always be searching but most of all they care about showing off flavor. I could hurl around ‘missing the point’ superlatives complimenting anything from the color of the bathroom walls, to the waiter’s outfits; I want to examine the beautifully crafted food however, which to me is ‘the point’. The deep fried beef tongue with red cabbage salad was right up my strassa; a reworked version of the classic Turkish bufe sandwich with crunchy Japanese Panko crumbs and an accompanying lemony, mustardy salad to assuage and cut through any guilty conscience still wrestling with the words ‘deep fried’. The grilled grouper with Borlotti bean puree and mint and green chili salsa is a lovely dish; a perfect window into the type of intelligent food being served at Changa. The salsa was spicy, sweet, salty, and sour; the fish, perfectly cooked white flaky protein; an ideal vehicle for all of the above; the puree offers an appropriately almost bland backdrop and creamy texture contrast. The slow cooked lamb wrapped in vine leaves with sour cream and sweet chili sauce showcases Changa’s philosophy in triumphant fashion; Turkish ingredients and motifs used in an innovative, surprising way; the lamb, the leaves and the cooking liquor are wholesome and deeply familiar; add soured cream and sweet, chili and your looking at a beautifully conceived dish that bridges the well traversed gaps between rustic and fine dining, Turkish and Asian. Well traversed for the Changa team! Not for the rest of us!
www.barneyfisherturner.com
Barney Fisher-Turner
Istanbul Food Stylist/Food Writer
Moreish Review
A couple of weeks ago I was finally able to sample the exciting menu at Moreish; everyone in Istanbul’s food sector has been raving about this modestly sized dining room and the food served to those who inhabit. Bread represents the first food stuff a customer will eat when they sit down in most restaurants; it’s either lacking in character or warm, crunchy, fluffy and life affirming. The bread at Moreish fulfilled all of the latter points and is served in a playful, original way with good not too cheesy Turkish butter and a line of Egyptian spices. As a soup person I kicked off with The Spiced Egg Plant and Chorizo Soup, which comes complete with beautifully poached quails eggs, and spinach The smear of spicy Chorizo puree, the smoky warming egg plant and the comfortable oozing poached egg combine to form a masterful very serious soup presentation full of beautiful flavors Every guest should try the deeply refreshing sweet tomato sorbet to cleanse the palette. For mains the hearty dish of Grilled Quails with Veal Bolognese is a must; this appetizing deeply savory dish is served with comforting mashed potato to mop up the full flavored sauce and poached Quails eggs. All I can say about this one is that it is jolly good eating and perfect wholesome wet weather food. For dessert I was kindly offered two equally delicious, inventive, slightly strange sounding ice creams; twinned on one plate was the olive oil, and the celery. My wife had to listen to me wax lyrical about this eye opening supper for days; apparently the latest one in the sector to be raving!
www.barneyfisherturner.com
Istanbul Food Stylist/Food Writer
Moreish Review
A couple of weeks ago I was finally able to sample the exciting menu at Moreish; everyone in Istanbul’s food sector has been raving about this modestly sized dining room and the food served to those who inhabit. Bread represents the first food stuff a customer will eat when they sit down in most restaurants; it’s either lacking in character or warm, crunchy, fluffy and life affirming. The bread at Moreish fulfilled all of the latter points and is served in a playful, original way with good not too cheesy Turkish butter and a line of Egyptian spices. As a soup person I kicked off with The Spiced Egg Plant and Chorizo Soup, which comes complete with beautifully poached quails eggs, and spinach The smear of spicy Chorizo puree, the smoky warming egg plant and the comfortable oozing poached egg combine to form a masterful very serious soup presentation full of beautiful flavors Every guest should try the deeply refreshing sweet tomato sorbet to cleanse the palette. For mains the hearty dish of Grilled Quails with Veal Bolognese is a must; this appetizing deeply savory dish is served with comforting mashed potato to mop up the full flavored sauce and poached Quails eggs. All I can say about this one is that it is jolly good eating and perfect wholesome wet weather food. For dessert I was kindly offered two equally delicious, inventive, slightly strange sounding ice creams; twinned on one plate was the olive oil, and the celery. My wife had to listen to me wax lyrical about this eye opening supper for days; apparently the latest one in the sector to be raving!
www.barneyfisherturner.com
Monday, March 16, 2009
Siirt Şeref Review
Barney Fisher-Turner: Istanbul Food Stylist/Food Writer
www.barneyfisherturner.com
Certain humans equate price with quality when eating out; perhaps the garish bourgouis element relate to this; two hours in front of the mirror trying on shiny clothing combos, even longer at the hair dresser flicking though out of date women’s magazines and drinking Turkish coffee; scrubbed, fluffed and bronzed to soak up appreciated ‘hollow glances’. I inhabit these ultra fine restaurants too as the tasty well crafted food which to me is always the interesting part is more often than not worth that tedious hour agonizing with trouser selection and ironing ageing shirt. Every true food lover in the biz that I have spoken to in Istanbul over the last couple of months harbors one shared notion that good food has nothing to do with inflated menu prices, expensive interior design or recognition of other perfume drenched, mammals : personally I cultivate a steady conviction that both refined presentations; slicks, smears, towers and good authentic rustic Turkish kebabs offer up just as much and are equally symbolic; Siirt Şeref my new favorite restaurant is producing the finest pit roasted lamb and Lamacuns using the best ingredients; the ayran is frothy fresh and the smoky deeply savory roast meat is expertly sliced and piled onto patient pides; accompaniments according to tradition consist of ultra fresh tomato ezme, topped off with the best Pommagranate syrup, parsley, sliced onions and so on. Frankly I don’t need to get dressed up to the nines every time I just want something to chew on; all I want from any establishment is to eat good food; sometimes this stuff comes in the form of Foie Gras at a five star! artisan roasted meats found in Fatih’s women’s market also represent that so called ticket and you can skip the formal wear and probing looks from empty vessels.
İtfaiye Cad,
Imam Niyazi Sokak,
No 7,
Fatih
Istanbul
www.barneyfisherturner.com
Certain humans equate price with quality when eating out; perhaps the garish bourgouis element relate to this; two hours in front of the mirror trying on shiny clothing combos, even longer at the hair dresser flicking though out of date women’s magazines and drinking Turkish coffee; scrubbed, fluffed and bronzed to soak up appreciated ‘hollow glances’. I inhabit these ultra fine restaurants too as the tasty well crafted food which to me is always the interesting part is more often than not worth that tedious hour agonizing with trouser selection and ironing ageing shirt. Every true food lover in the biz that I have spoken to in Istanbul over the last couple of months harbors one shared notion that good food has nothing to do with inflated menu prices, expensive interior design or recognition of other perfume drenched, mammals : personally I cultivate a steady conviction that both refined presentations; slicks, smears, towers and good authentic rustic Turkish kebabs offer up just as much and are equally symbolic; Siirt Şeref my new favorite restaurant is producing the finest pit roasted lamb and Lamacuns using the best ingredients; the ayran is frothy fresh and the smoky deeply savory roast meat is expertly sliced and piled onto patient pides; accompaniments according to tradition consist of ultra fresh tomato ezme, topped off with the best Pommagranate syrup, parsley, sliced onions and so on. Frankly I don’t need to get dressed up to the nines every time I just want something to chew on; all I want from any establishment is to eat good food; sometimes this stuff comes in the form of Foie Gras at a five star! artisan roasted meats found in Fatih’s women’s market also represent that so called ticket and you can skip the formal wear and probing looks from empty vessels.
İtfaiye Cad,
Imam Niyazi Sokak,
No 7,
Fatih
Istanbul
Saturday, March 14, 2009
Zazie: Istanbul Review
Barney Fisher-Turner: Istanbul Food Stylist/Food Writer
www.barneyfisherturner.com
ZAZIE
One of my pet hates are bastardized pizzas with too much synthetic cheese; sometimes these monstrous creations have only a hint of tomato sauce hiding underneath or maybe it’s an illusion; something imagined; an illusory pink stain! Once a month I like to put these somewhat disturbing demons to sleep by enjoying a thoroughly delicious authentic pizza marinara at Zazie in the heart of Nisantasi; this pizza is thin, crispy, authentic and deeply savory with unctuous tomato sauce, the best dry thyme and delightfully salty anchovies that sing in the mouth; this heavenly pizza is the absolute opposite of the cheese laden atrocities mentioned above. Atilla and Vicki Hunal the classy owners of this neighborhood favorite that just happens to produce the best damn pizzas in the city are real food enthusiasts; with Zazie they have compiled an exciting international menu that reflects their unwavering interest in travel and good food using only the best produce. Another point I will mention is that the Hunal’s observe the small and in this writers opinion important details; they always have Tabasco on hand, Heinz tomato ketchup, the bathrooms are inviting and clean and the soft drinks are expertly poured over the right shaped ice into the correct glasses. This stuff at least to the obsessive food critic always seems to matter most.
www.barneyfisherturner.com
ZAZIE
One of my pet hates are bastardized pizzas with too much synthetic cheese; sometimes these monstrous creations have only a hint of tomato sauce hiding underneath or maybe it’s an illusion; something imagined; an illusory pink stain! Once a month I like to put these somewhat disturbing demons to sleep by enjoying a thoroughly delicious authentic pizza marinara at Zazie in the heart of Nisantasi; this pizza is thin, crispy, authentic and deeply savory with unctuous tomato sauce, the best dry thyme and delightfully salty anchovies that sing in the mouth; this heavenly pizza is the absolute opposite of the cheese laden atrocities mentioned above. Atilla and Vicki Hunal the classy owners of this neighborhood favorite that just happens to produce the best damn pizzas in the city are real food enthusiasts; with Zazie they have compiled an exciting international menu that reflects their unwavering interest in travel and good food using only the best produce. Another point I will mention is that the Hunal’s observe the small and in this writers opinion important details; they always have Tabasco on hand, Heinz tomato ketchup, the bathrooms are inviting and clean and the soft drinks are expertly poured over the right shaped ice into the correct glasses. This stuff at least to the obsessive food critic always seems to matter most.
Atiye Sk. Ak Apartmanı,
No:7/2 Teşvikiye,
İstanbul
0090 212 231 87 81
No:7/2 Teşvikiye,
İstanbul
0090 212 231 87 81
Friday, March 13, 2009
Cağri Büfe: Istanbul Review
Barney Fisher-Turner: Istanbul Food Stylist/Food Writer
www.barneyfisherturner.com
Çağri Büfe
When I am in Istanbul I always miss my mother’s classic British cooking; Roast Beef and Yorkshire pudding and my favorite Apple crumble with homemade custard. On the other hand if I am visiting family and friends in London the first things that I start to miss are the grilled cheese and tongue sandwiches and the famous, almost regal Doner Pide from Çağri Büfe in Nişantaşi. Thinking of these extraordinary Turkish sandwich versions always sparks an all encompassing home sickness; all I want to do is offer hollow goodbyes to my rather vexed parents, pack my bags and head for the airport. Cool lemonade, perfect sosis with American salad and a charming little cheese burger might be the very thing when I return to Istanbul. To be honest I hate traveling or breaking my well worn routine; staying in strange beds, washing in even stranger low flow showers and having to experiment with unfamiliar eateries; away from the delightful familiar every experience becomes a lottery. Çağri has become an integral part of my weekly program; the best grilled cheese and freshly squeezed orange juice produced by a team who care about quality provides me with resonating reassurance; every time I step into this supreme büfe I know that the food will be perfect; the ingredients are clearly well sourced which is rare for restaurant of this type; in general the simple things are always done well which to me is very important. Standing with a frosty ayran, half way through my second juicy burger, greedily debating a third; valuable experiences, vivid reminders that I have found my way home!
Valikonağı Cad. No: 109,
Nişantaşi
Istanbul,
Turkey
0090 212 241-7583
www.barneyfisherturner.com
Çağri Büfe
When I am in Istanbul I always miss my mother’s classic British cooking; Roast Beef and Yorkshire pudding and my favorite Apple crumble with homemade custard. On the other hand if I am visiting family and friends in London the first things that I start to miss are the grilled cheese and tongue sandwiches and the famous, almost regal Doner Pide from Çağri Büfe in Nişantaşi. Thinking of these extraordinary Turkish sandwich versions always sparks an all encompassing home sickness; all I want to do is offer hollow goodbyes to my rather vexed parents, pack my bags and head for the airport. Cool lemonade, perfect sosis with American salad and a charming little cheese burger might be the very thing when I return to Istanbul. To be honest I hate traveling or breaking my well worn routine; staying in strange beds, washing in even stranger low flow showers and having to experiment with unfamiliar eateries; away from the delightful familiar every experience becomes a lottery. Çağri has become an integral part of my weekly program; the best grilled cheese and freshly squeezed orange juice produced by a team who care about quality provides me with resonating reassurance; every time I step into this supreme büfe I know that the food will be perfect; the ingredients are clearly well sourced which is rare for restaurant of this type; in general the simple things are always done well which to me is very important. Standing with a frosty ayran, half way through my second juicy burger, greedily debating a third; valuable experiences, vivid reminders that I have found my way home!
Valikonağı Cad. No: 109,
Nişantaşi
Istanbul,
Turkey
0090 212 241-7583
Canim Ciğerim: Istanbul Review
Barney Fisher-Turner: Food Stylist/Food Writer
www.barneyfisherturner.com
Canim Ciğerim
My wife and I have been going to Canim Cigerim in Taksim for the past four years; the reason we always return to this well run establishment is because the food is always so fresh and delicious and the whole dining experience is hassle free and inexpensive. There is ‘no menu’ which I always like for some reason; perhaps it indicates that the owner and the chefs know how to serve one or two alternatives really well so why mess around; basically this is how it goes; you sit down at simple wooden tables, busy waiters bring an assortment of fresh herbs to chew on while you wait patiently for either barbecued lamb kebabs or liver for the bold, fresh spicy tomato ezme topped off with pomegranate syrup, an array of charred veg; the barbecued onions are my favorite; and piles of thin lavas bread; then it’s time to make your own tasty wraps; I always opt for a lamb and liver combo with plenty of tomato ezme and some crunchy fresh rocket. For die hard kebab enthusiasts or even travelers who are just intent on experiencing some good authentic Turkish food Canim Ciğerem represents an invaluable inside tip.
Asmalımescit Mahallesi Minare Sokak No: 1
Taksim
Istanbul
212 2526060
www.barneyfisherturner.com
Canim Ciğerim
My wife and I have been going to Canim Cigerim in Taksim for the past four years; the reason we always return to this well run establishment is because the food is always so fresh and delicious and the whole dining experience is hassle free and inexpensive. There is ‘no menu’ which I always like for some reason; perhaps it indicates that the owner and the chefs know how to serve one or two alternatives really well so why mess around; basically this is how it goes; you sit down at simple wooden tables, busy waiters bring an assortment of fresh herbs to chew on while you wait patiently for either barbecued lamb kebabs or liver for the bold, fresh spicy tomato ezme topped off with pomegranate syrup, an array of charred veg; the barbecued onions are my favorite; and piles of thin lavas bread; then it’s time to make your own tasty wraps; I always opt for a lamb and liver combo with plenty of tomato ezme and some crunchy fresh rocket. For die hard kebab enthusiasts or even travelers who are just intent on experiencing some good authentic Turkish food Canim Ciğerem represents an invaluable inside tip.
| |
Taksim
Istanbul
212 2526060
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